![]() ![]() Turn off the circuit breaker, open up the deadfront/switch GFCI, remove (only) the load wires, turn breaker back on, see if it resets. ![]() Following the accepted answers test procedure identified that as the culprit prior to having to open any of the outlets on the circuit. My guess is that a surge related to the lightning fried that switch. Update: The problem was a failed/fried GFCI dead-font switch. Update: Wanted to mention that the circuit has an in-ground electric dog fence and a OTA antenna amplifier on it, which are obvious ways for lightning related surges to enter the system. I've added and replaced outlets before so I'm comfortable doing the work, I'm just trying to plan out the most efficient way to find the root cause. How can I go about testing the exterior outlets with the power off? Would a receptacle tester be able to detect a short with no power? (The prongs of my multimeter unfortuntely wont fit into an outlet, so I may have to get a new device) Hardware store is 30m away so I want to diagnose as much as possible before leaving and buying stuff I don't need.įrom my limited experience it seems like this could be. House is 2 years old, and have not had any electrical problems so far, so I'm hoping this isn't internal wiring. So I unplugged everything from the exterior outlets, tried again and it still immediately trips. Not sure if that means something different or if its just blinks on a timer then goes solid. The trip sound seems a bit more like a "pop" than I remember, but this could just be me. I tried resetting it and it immediately trips again. At first the light was solid red, indicating a fault. The LED is on so the switch is getting power. This means that the protection is in fact, working.We had a storm last night (lightning/wind/rain) and this morning the dead front GFCI switch (located in garage) for all the exterior outlets was tripped. ![]() The red button next to it should pop out. One final step: push the small black button right here. Restore power at the circuit breaker or fuse box and then check with the night light to make sure that the circuit is working. Read the instructions thoroughly so you'll be sure and put the wires on the correct terminals, then attach the ground wire.įinally, fold the wires and gently push the GFCI back into the electrical box. Insert the stripped ends of the wires in the back of the GFCI receptacle and tighten the terminal screw. We'll also need to remove about one half inch of the wire covering using these wire strippers. The GFCI that we're installing requires straight ends on the wires. That's the one that usually looks like bare copper. Remove first the black wire from its terminal and then the white from its.įinally, detach the ground wire. Gently pull the receptacle out of the wall. Then remove the two screws, one top and one bottom that hold the receptacle in place. It shouldn't come on.įirst, take off the cover plate. Now a good way to check to be sure that there is no power here is to plug in a working night light. A water source near an electrical source can result in a deadly shock but there is a way to prevent that kind of accident by replacing these conventional receptacles with this, a ground fault circuit interrupter or GFCI receptacle.įirst, make sure you turn off the power at the circuit breaker or fuse box. ![]()
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